Get Thee to Wilson

Not only are artists abandoning Venice for the burgeoning galleries of downtown Culver City, but chefs are heading easterly, too. Michael Wilson, once the head chef of Venice’s acclaimed Five Dudley, now owns Wilson, located two blocks east of the Helms Bakery, on the South Side (located in the new MODAA (Museum of Design Art and Architecture) complex on Washington Boulevard, which also houses architecture offices, live-work lofts and a gallery space). The restaurant opened this summer, in July (2006).

A couple of BeansTalk staffers went Saturday night with our favorite gourmand. And, we must say, it was easily one of the best meals we’ve ever had. That’s saying a lot for us, who prefers the pleasures of simple (and really, inexpensive) food.

Wilson, believe it or not, was actually our second choice, after not being able to get into Ford Filling Station. Both restaurants have reached some acclaim (at least it's how everyone seems to reference them), merely by the coincidence that they’re both run and owned by chefs whose fathers were famous (Wilson’s dad is the late “Beach Boy” Dennis Wilson, who drown when Wilson was nine; Benjamin Ford’s is actor Harrison Ford.).

We were glad that Ford Filling Station was so popular since we ended up at Wilson. Initially, looking at this dinner menu (from their website, www.wilsonfoodandwine.com):

oodbar
lamb skewers with tzatziki 10
citrus marinated halibut 13
lambs tongue with parmesan, arugula & sour cherry 10
stuffed calamari with shrimp & almond 12
tea smoked whitefish 10

from the garden
soup du jour 10
house salad - romaine, radicchio, parmesan crisp & white marinated anchovies 13
baby field greens - croutons, proscuitto, fromage blanc chevre, eggplant & herb pesto 13
grilled & raw asparagus salad with truffled beet tartare & st. agur dressing 15
beef sirloin salad with shaved apples, celery hearts arugula, parmesan & banyuls dijon vinaigrette 16

dinner plate
market vegetables 16
1/2 jidori chicken crusted in cilantro pesto & wasabi mashed potatoes 22
pan roasted skate wing with wild mushroom ragout & herb coulis 23
new zealand mussels with puy lentils & bilbao chorizo 17
baked copper river salmon with a fennel, swiss chard & shallot stew garnished with fennel butter 25
slowww roasted pork with african spices, fresh corn polenta & bbq fresh cherry sauce 22

piccolo pasta
potato & fig tortelli in a bed of parmesan fondue 13
spaghetti a la lina - olive oil, toasted almonds, arugula & tomato 12
chicken ravioli with fresh marinara & butter & sage sauce 15
tagliatelle bolognese 17

…we were worried it was too fancy with complicated dishes, ah, but we shouldn’t have worried.

We started off with two specials, Heirloom Tomatoes with a huge slab of Humboldt Fog cheese and the soup of the day (gorgeous richness of sweet potato, sweet corn, curry and other heady tastes). We then had something that isn’t on the above menu, a gratin of fennel over salmon (smoked) with a bed of greens atop that. Wow. Sensational. We shared two entrees to sample: spaghetti a la lina - olive oil, toasted almonds, arugula & tomato and slowww roasted pork with african spices, fresh corn polenta & bbq fresh cherry sauce. Both were sensational. The portions were very generous as well.

Diners have the option of choosing from their extensive menu and eating small plates, but we opted for creating our own meal. They have a prix fixe menu ($60 and $75 with black truffles; and, as our enthusiastic waiter Vincent – who wouldn’t tell us which restaurant we knew him from previously – told us, they will custom design the plates based on your preferences).

Three desserts were available, a chocolate mousse, a peach crumble and a baked Alaska (with ice cream made on the premises). We had the latter two and they were so dreamy, we ate super slowly to enjoy each bite.

The same party of pals had gone to Orso’s a few weeks ago and we were frankly duly unimpressed. We cannot say the same of the meal we had at Wilson. Dish after dish was amazing, illiciting oohs and pleasured sighs.

This ranks as one of the highest rated in BeansTalk’s universe and Wilson’s is already filling up fast. Make reservations, as they do take them. It’s a must-try for Angelenos and visitors.

Wilson
8631 E. Washington Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232
Ph: 310 287 2093
info@WilsonFood&Wine.com

Photos from their website