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Thursday, November 16, 2006
Your Music: Johnny Cash, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Elvis Presley
Your Brand: Antik
The story: From their website:
Los Angeles-based Antik Denim was formed in 2004 by co-designers Alexandre Caugant and Philippe Naouri, and the denim tycoon, Paul Guez. French-born Caugant and Naouri are life-long friends who share a 20-year professional history that is steeped in vintage denim fashion. They share a personal history as well: growing up in the South of France, their emergence into denim retailing, and ambition to start their own brand. What unites them is a passion for antique Western and workwear designs, and perfectionism about their product. For them, the success of Antik Denim is nothing short of the American Dream.
Antik Denim has quickly become a recognized premium denim brand in the U.S. and internationally. The manufacturing of the collections is distinguished by a craftsmanship
and care reminiscent of a lost art. Each pair is individually decorated, chasing an
era when things were made by hand. Exclusive Japanese and Italian fabrics are used for their quality and comfort.
The Antik Denim brand is fast expanding. The companys to-do list includes licensing jewelry, shoes and other products, and developing childrens clothing, an Elvis Presley-inspired collection, and two new lines: Antik Kargo and Antik Vintage. The company recently opened its flagship store on Hollywoods chic and swanky Melrose Avenue. Antik's one-of-a-kind denims, T-shirts and other novelties are available there, or at any of these luxury retail stores: Saks, Bloomingdales, Barneys, Neiman Marcus and Kitson. Antik Denim went public in 2005, and boasts strong worldwide sales.
Antik Denim is destined to become the new American classic. Its not about denim: its about the pleasure of denim. Antik Denim's comfortable fit, premium material, and an attention to details has raised the bar. According to Naouri and Caugant, ethnic cultures, vintage, art, and basically everything artistic with a soul, is at the heart of their designs. To this they add, “We believe in authentic products, originality, and perfection.” Antik Denim is reinventing denim for the 21st Century, and becoming a statement in the world of fashion.
Philippe Nouri Designer Philippe Naouris 20-year commitment to vintage denim, measured by his obsessive knowledge of detailing and craftsmanship, earned him the title, "The King of Vintage, in the fashion industry. His passion for denim design was evident when he was only 15 years old. The year was 1985, and he was working at the only store in his hometown of Marseille, France, that carried authentic American denim. That store became the first vintage shop he would own. At barely 17, and with little capital, he roadtripped across America, uncovering rare vintage treasures for his store.
Naouri grew to be a sought-after expert in the fashion business. Reputable companies such as Replay, Diesel, G-star, Levis and Chevignon, bought his most exclusive and inspirational vintage pieces for their designs, and hired him to consult on style, details and wash. In 1991, he organized the first ever antique Levis auction held in Drouot, France, in partnership with Levis.
In the book, Jeans of Heroes, Lincoln Editions, 1994, Naouri was dubbed the French Connection Of Denim. He also contributed to an event in honor of denim for the city of Nimes, France, where denim was supposed to have originated. In Texas, where he lived for 16 years prior to Los Angeles, his warehouse became a virtual Ali Baba cavern for antique denim buyers the world over. The future holds plans for this connoisseur of denim to open his own jeans museum.
Naouri says he is inspired by, vintage movies, fashion furniture, and music. He also notes his affection for perfection and authenticity. What motivated this perfectionist to create Antik, along with his friend Alexandre Caugant, was his experience working for other designers, timing, and his desire to gift the world with his fresh approach. Naouri's vision for Antik Denim is to build a brand which, as he puts it, will last for another 150 years, and mark its time just like Levis did.
Alexandre Caugant Alexandre Caugant's reputation for innovation has made him one of the hottest fashion designers today, and is one reason Antik Denim has won the affection of some of the limelight’s hippest stars. Its a characteristic he shares with his co-designer Philippe Naouri - the ability to invent designs that revive the past and connect with people. Of his designs, Caugant says, “I bring out something different all the time. I like to surprise, and always keep it fresh.”
At an age when other kids went off to college, Caugant began his career working at a Levi's store in his hometown of Marseille, France, and screen printing original T-shirts for fun. He went on to dress store windows throughout the South of France. In the '90s, he moved to Paris to work for the successful brand Chevignon, where he added a vintage flair to his designs. Other companies who tapped his talent include: Bisous-Bisous, and Morgan De Toi. He says he learned a lot from colleagues in the fashion business, especially Guy Azoulay (Chevignon), Christian Audigier (Von Dutch), and Jeannot Elbaz (Chipie). Caugant claims that modesty, and being open to learning new things is a secret to success.
Cougant’s dream of seeing his won brand sold in stores worldwide was to be realized in 2004
2004. But before coming to Los Angeles, where he now lives, he traversed South America, China, and Japan, and absorbed the beauty and passion of different cultures, colors, and life. He developed styles that looked sexy on women of many sizes; in Brazil, he perfected the ever-popular super-low jean. He worked with the high-profile brand Goa, in Columbia, where he invented his signature stitching and customized jeans. That led to his work with ABL Couture, at which time he became reacquainted with his old friend Naouri. About what inspires him, Caugants says, I believe fashion is on the street, fashion is people. The media inspires me, TV, movies, and music.
Recently, BeansTalk was very, very lucky to pin down jet setter Alexandre Caugant for a few moments to answer questions:
AAG: As the friendship between design partners is "vintage" and true in your case, so is your commitment to vintage denim. For those of our readers who are unfamiliar with the qualities of vintage denim, what makes it so special?
AC: Vintage is important because it is infusing the new styles with old sensibilities. We use lighter, softer fabrics and create a whole new piece. What is old is new again - like a circle.
AAG: The look of your line is distinctly American, and perhaps a reflection of your road trip across America a number of years ago. We see bandana-like patterns on pockets, and other antique Western trademarks reflected in the designs. Can you tell us more about these design themes and the American experiences which inspired them?
AC: The original Anitk line is very classic American. Philippe spent time in Dallas, Texas, so that influenced our initial look and feel. Very Americana. Philippe and I also love going to vintage shops to get ideas and pick up pieces. With the Blackout line we incorporated a much harder edge. More rock n' roll. It has a very "city" feel to it. It is exciting to come up with new ideas for a line. This creates new customers and really has a much larger impact.
AAG: Lastly, and most importantly - what kind of music do you listen to?
AC: We listen to a lot of Rock n' Roll. We love Green Day, Coldplay, anything with character. We also like to mix it up with some classical and instrumental pieces from time to time
Thank you so much for taking the time, Mr. Caugant.
What we think: Okay. This is going to be hard not to go over the top with this, but BeansTalk is super, super excited about these jeans. Really, calling these super-luxurious denims – jeans – is almost an insult. “Jeans” seems like too common a word.
The designs of this line have a tremendous “Wow” factor. We were lucky enough to try and wear a pair from the new Blackout line. With the Blackout line, Caugant and Naouri have brached out from the antique Western original line and moved into a more urban, rocked out, and edgy design theme.
They are a heavier weight denim, known for its workwear quality as well as its pedigree from the fine mills in Japan and Italy. Hand workmanship is also to be appreciated in the flapped cargo pockets up and down the legs, deep hip pockets, leather accents, and oversize zippers at the hem and hip area.
The back pockets of this division of the Antik line are said to be “simpler” than from the original line, but BeansTalk thought that the zipped, flapped, and starburst-pattern studded pockets on the rear were extraordinary. The fit and feel are luxurious and expert. We can’t say enough about how much we like them. Note: readers and denim lovers should also keep their eyes peeled and pocketbooks handy for the very new Vintage Collection of military inspired denims.
BeansTalk recommends that you try Antik Denim if you program your iPod with what we call: “Iconic music”. When we first saw this line and got a feel for the antique Western influences and the Blackout themes – we instantly thought of one of Country’s most revered men in black: Johnny Cash. The Folsom Prison album, is considered one of the pillars of country music, and Cash’s outlaw sensibilities appeal to the sufferer, the darker moods in all of us.
He defies categorization really, much like Antik Denim. We also recommend the Red Hot Chili Peppers’ latest CD set, “Stadium Arcadium," for Antik wearers. BeansTalk thinks that the Peppers have moved into iconic status with this release, especially with songs like “Dani California," “Tell Me, Baby," and “Snow.”
So, rock out with Coldplay and Green Day as the designers do, or go country with Big n' Rich or Keith Urban. Check out Bach or Beethoven classics, or even get your groove on with the King of Rock and Roll, Elvis Presley. We think that particular rock icon would have loved our studded pockets.
Antik denim pants retail between $175.00 and $295.00 and can be found nationwide at stores such as Saks, Barney’s, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Kitson, and Atrium, or check them out at www.antikdenim.com